Saturday, April 19, 2008

The Edfu temple yet some more

Upon my return there today, the guard who I had paid to get up to the roof was very happy to see me, and was telling me about the really nice views from the other side of the roof and suggesting that I could perhaps go up there as well lol. I wasn’t sure if it meant another climb up, or via the actual stairs this time though... so I decided to pass at least for now.There was one guide leading a group through the temple who was quite good. He spent about 10 minutes on the perfume room, and even gave descriptions of how some of the perfumes were made. Much better then the half assed guide that I had had the day before. I really should have gotten his name/number. The only problem was that he didn’t speak English very well, or so he said. He still spoke much better English then my guide had. According to the people in his group, he was also an archaeologist, so no wonder he did a better tour. I think it’s one guide who went to university just to get a good paying job, versus the other one who actually has a keen interest in the topic.My guide insists that no one needs more then a day at the Edfu temple, which obviously shows his lack of interest as well as knowledge about temples. There have been some groups over the years who spent months or years at that particular temple, going back daily. Apparently I am quite an anomaly here since no one ever spends more then a day in Edfu (2 at most), then they leave. No one ever goes to the Edfu temple more then once either apparently. While there is much to the temple, there isn’t all that much to do in Edfu really.... one can rent a bike, or take a horse drawn carriage around and go look at the town ruins, head over to El-Kab, and that is about it. Apparently there is also some street entertainment some nights near here. I didn’t get to see it, but I’m guessing it would be the stick dancing that seems ever popular in Egypt. Stick dancing is basically a PA out on the street, with several men doing a slightly intricate dance with large poles, dancing around and between them. It is interesting... for about 10 minutes.To get into the Edfu temple you have to walk for a few minutes past several booths of people selling stuff through this gated off area. However watching the locals I quickly learned that you can just hop over the short fence in one area and get right to the ticket booth. Needless to say this pisses off the overly persistent sellers. At least they all seem desperate enough that is I wanted another $2 t-shirt I could most likely acquire one. Usually by the time I get to the temple all of the little tiny shops/stalls are all closed though since most of the cruise ships and tour buses have already left for the day. There are some tour buses that come by an hour before closing to see the temple in the dark though. Edfu temple is just gorgeous after dark!

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